Return Read online

  Dedication

  To my niece Yousra in Sana’a

  and my friend Dorene in Toronto,

  for being my homelands

  Contents

  Cover

  Title Page

  Dedication

  Introduction: The Language of Home

  Part I

  Chapter 1. The Age of Return. Maybe

  Chapter 2. The Basque Country: A Homeland for the Basques. A Homeland for Everyone?

  Chapter 3. Jamaica: Come from Foreign

  Part II

  Chapter 4. There’s No Business Like Return Business

  Chapter 5. Northern Ireland: Call My Brother Back

  Chapter 6. Taiwan: The ABCs of Return

  Part III

  Chapter 7. Ancestral Homelands

  Chapter 8. Ghana: The Year of Return

  Chapter 9. Israel and the Palestinian Territories: Competing Returns

  Coda

  Acknowledgements

  About the Author

  Notes

  Also by Kamal Al-Solaylee

  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  Introduction

  The Language of Home

  Where do you want to be buried?”

  Since my date and I were walking alongside Mount Pleasant Cemetery in midtown Toronto, the question didn’t come as a complete surprise. Its morbidity threw me off, nonetheless. I had planned this to be a romantic post-dinner summer stroll. My dream list of questions included, but was not limited to, “Do you want to move in together?” and “Where would you like to go for our honeymoon?” He and I had just braved the crowds at a nearby ice cream shop and devoured double servings of pistachio and chocolate gelato in a scene worthy of a rom-com.

  “Toronto,” I replied.

  Although I was born in Yemen, raised in Lebanon and Egypt, and educated in England, I had come to see Toronto (and Canada) as my homeland. I revelled in the kindness the city had shown me and the career opportunities it had afforded me. I dedicated my first book to it, for giving me what I’d been looking for: a home. In my second, I called it my “sanctuary,” a good place to be brown. My love affair with Toronto started the moment I landed at its international airport, on April 20, 1996. Like many immigrants who have left oppressive regimes or escaped civil wars, I think of that arrival date as a second birthday, a parallel timeline in which life began just as I was about to turn thirty-two. I no longer entertained thoughts of a secret “unled life” because I finally had the one I wanted.

  “I want to be buried in Sana’a, next to my grandparents,” countered my date, who was born near Detroit to a Yemeni family and had spent most of his adult life in the United States. Although he was a natural-born citizen, he didn’t think that America deserved his remains because he’d never felt connected to it as a country of birth or of residence.

  I remember thinking how fortunate I was to claim a dot on the world map as mine—one place for my body to play, love, work, grow old and, when the time came, be put to rest. My date’s words suggested an inner turmoil and un-belonging to which I was immune.

  That exchange took place in August 2012. Barack Obama was three months away from winning his second term as president of the United States. I knew Donald Trump mostly as a C-list reality TV star who’d had cameos in Home Alone and on Sex and the City, and as the gauche multimillionaire behind the racist birther movement. Back then, very few journalists and university professors were willing to defend with a straight face the free speech rights of bigots or adopt a “both sides” approach to one race-based conflict after another—at least not publicly. American democracy had exhibited signs of weakness before, but it was yet to receive the near-fatal blow of the Trump White House. Canada, meanwhile, was in the advanced stages of a rigid conservative ideology known as Harperism, and Toronto’s then mayor, Rob Ford, had emerged as a prototype of the populist standard-bearers to come. But these signs of an approaching right-wing backlash didn’t strike me as significant then—or more likely, I chose to ignore them. Toronto was too much of a dream come true for me to see beyond my privileged place within it.

  If I were asked the same question today, almost a decade later, I wouldn’t know how to respond. I suspect I wouldn’t be as definitive about Toronto as I once was. My date’s remark, which seemed irrational and troubling then, strikes me now as reasonable and in a way prescient. Our relationship has ended, but the question lingers. So much has happened to recalibrate my affinities that I’ve been forced to rethink my resting place and where I call home. There’s something broken in my sense of belonging, that “necessary mediation between an individual and society” that Adrienne Clarkson explores in her book Belonging: The Paradox of Citizenship. In belonging to ourselves and our societies, “we have the greatest possibility to live full lives,” she writes. And yet, the longer I live in this city, the further I drift away from it and the less it feels like my place in the world.

  I can’t stop thinking about what it would be like to just go home—to return to the Arab world in general and Yemen in particular, and put my current life behind me.

  Maybe I’m at a stage when a return to roots is natural and inevitable. Or perhaps the world that has sheltered me from the vagaries of the Middle East for three decades is becoming less hospitable and more vicious to people of darker skin tones and different religions. The idea that Western liberal democracies are declining in popularity among voters frightens me. That never bodes well for racial and religious minorities. In the past five years, I’ve experienced more incidents of racism on the streets of Toronto, at work, in interactions with friends and on mainstream and social media than I had in the previous twenty.

  Every time I call my family in Yemen to check in on them, they in turn express concerns about my safety. Their local news programs feature a constant rotation of stories about attacks against Muslims in the West. “That’s in America, not here,” I lie to them. When a gunman stormed into an Islamic cultural centre in Quebec City in 2017, killing six and injuring nineteen, I all but fabricated a history of racism in English Canada and French Canada to set their minds at ease. “This sort of thing doesn’t happen in English Canada, where I live,” I said, fake news-ing my way through the rest of the call.

  I knew then and I know now that I’m lying only to myself.

  I draw a straight line between the insecurities and fears that animate my return thoughts and the United States during the Trump administration, where nationhood hinged on deporting and barring those people (Hispanics and Muslims, respectively) whom the president’s base continues to regard as a threat to the majority status of whites. “You will not replace us,” chanted neo-Nazis on the streets of Charlottesville, Virginia, during the infamous Unite the Right rally in 2017. With its roots in age-old antisemitism and the Great Replacement (grand remplacement) theory of French writer Renaud Camus—who believes that white Europeans are being “reverse-colonized by black and brown immigrants” in an “extinction-level” event—that phrase has become a rallying cry for the right in North America.

  The Great Replacement theory provides context for the rise of far-right Western European politicians who advocate closing borders and repatriating immigrants and refugees. Unofficially, it defined Trump’s immigration policies and views on race. Although Trump himself is now firmly in history’s dustbin as a president, the “legacy” of Trumpism will take years—decades, perhaps—to undo. You can hear and see its echoes in this country in popular Conservative slogans such as “Take Back Canada” and in the outsized influence of far-right strategists on provincial politics in Ontario and Alberta.

  The pandemic revealed what I had known all along: even in a place like Toronto, which projects equality and racial tolerance as its brand, people of colour are oft
en seen as lesser than, expendable. In the first wave of the pandemic, studies suggest, 83 percent of COVID cases were among racialized people, who are more likely to be employed as essential or frontline health workers and in precarious positions with no paid sick days. I strongly believe that the response to the pandemic, on both the municipal and the provincial level, would have been different had its victims not been mostly minorities and the elderly.

  For now, and in one hell of a silver lining, the expression “go back to where you come from” no longer sounds to me like a racist chant or a threat. It’s something that millions of people have done and will continue to do, by choice or as a last resort. I feel an urge to join them and to be part of an ongoing, multi-destination, multi-ethnic narrative about return to roots. Return encompasses and transcends race, geography and history.

  Ultimately, it was a humanitarian crisis—described by the United Nations as the world’s largest—that crystallized the pull of homeland for me. This book wouldn’t exist had I not been preoccupied with the tragedy unfolding in Yemen, a country I couldn’t wait to leave in my twenties and now fantasize about returning to in my fifties. Since March 2015, a Saudi Arabia–led coalition has waged a war to restore Yemen’s legitimate, internationally recognized government, which was deposed by Iran-supported Houthi rebels in the fall of 2014. It’s a quagmire of foreign intervention on a level with Iraq and Afghanistan. According to a 2020 report from the United Nations, an estimated 233,000 Yemenis have died since 2015, including 131,000 from indirect causes (lack of food, health services and infrastructure). Nearly twenty-four million of a population of just under thirty million are considered people in need.

  Yemen is where I was born (the port city of Aden), and where most of my siblings and extended family still live (the capital, Sana’a). Cholera, famine, water and electricity shortages, floods and more than a year of COVID-19—in addition to and exacerbated by the war—have left Yemenis reeling as the world watched, helplessly, indifferently.

  I hear stories from family and friends about life in Yemen, and I wonder how any nation can cope with so many problems simultaneously. In some years, the inflation rate has surpassed 30 percent, putting food and shelter beyond the reach of millions. I watch news reports of dying and starving children on social media. The images crush my spirit, but I can’t look away. I’m outraged and sad in ways that go beyond humanitarianism or a sense of duty to help the less fortunate. Among those suffering are members of my immediate family and people with whom I share blood, a language and a faith.

  The biggest connection, however, remains our shared homeland—soil, seas, streets, structures, mountains, trees, smells and sounds—even if I’ve been away from the country for decades.

  A house on a hill has been fuelling my own return fantasy for several years now.

  * * *

  Ever since I was a child, my exiled family has talked about a dilapidated old house on the outskirts of Aden. My father built beit el gabal, or the mountain house, for his parents in the early 1950s to save his marriage. My grandparents lived with their first-born son, as was the custom then, but they tormented my mother with their nagging and their interference in how she raised her children. By sending his parents to live in the new house, my father, ever the dutiful son, could keep them nearby but away from my mother.

  The two-bedroom house and the mostly arid land around it have been in my family’s possession ever since, despite a few decades of communism, when the government of what was then South Yemen confiscated private properties, all but destroying my father’s real estate business. My surviving nine siblings and I now own it jointly.

  I’ve never set foot in that house, but I recall seeing it from a distance when I last visited Aden, in the spring of 1992, after four years of living in England. “Who would want to live there?” the twenty-seven-year-old me asked my uncle, who had taken me on a guided tour of my birthplace. I felt the sting of his disappointment as he lectured me on my indifference to family history and our homeland. “Millions dream of a house like this,” he chided. I wasn’t sold on his argument back then. I just wanted to go back to my student residence in leafy Nottingham.

  Over the past decade, my brothers and sisters have been restoring the house and decorating it with old furniture from various households. Because of its elevation, it provides a reprieve from Aden’s punishing heat in the spring and summer. It’s not connected to the local sewage system, such as that is, but it’s the closest we come to owning a summer home. The mountain house conjures Aden—the city where I was born, where my late mother and father got married and lived for twenty-two years before we all fled the post-independence turbulence of 1967. It’s Aden, it’s always Aden, that I dream of returning to. It’s not Sana’a, where I lived as an adult for two years in the 1980s. It’s not Cairo, my home for fifteen years and my reference point for the Arab world. It’s Aden, the former British colony where my family’s story began, that keeps calling me back.

  When I met up with my sister Raga’a in Cairo in 2019, while working on this book, I drove her to distraction with my non-stop questions about the mountain house. I stared at pictures on her mobile phone and mentally redecorated the space with furniture I’d bought specially for it. No more mismatched sofas and chairs. Raga’a couldn’t understand why someone who lives in Toronto—a place as materially far from her Sana’a base as Earth is from Saturn—would want to revisit such a rundown spot. Let alone live in it. “You will not be able to handle the heat in the summer,” she warned me, “or the smell of garbage that stays uncollected for days.”

  I take her point but offer my own.

  I have an uncontrollable desire to “return” to the house, to live in it for however long I can. The logistics, I’ll deal with later. I want to feel close to my beginnings; to my great-grandmothers, who died before I was born; to the memory of aunts and uncles, now all gone, whose faces stare at me from family photos. And closer still to my late mother, who was grateful to see her in-laws banished there from her domestic kingdom. I wonder what she would have made of her favourite son living there.

  The mountain house was the place I longed to escape to when the pandemic hit in the spring of 2020 and thoughts of dying and burial places became more than passing morbidity. The unnamed heroine of Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca dreamed of going back to Manderley; I dreamed of a mountain house in Aden.

  When I was a theatre critic, I often poked fun at the return stories so beloved by Black, brown and East Asian artists in Toronto. These torn-between-two-cultures stories were popular with theatre companies, and arts councils eagerly funded them as part of a push for diversity and inclusion. I owe some of them an apology. (Many were spectacularly awful.) I get it now, even if my experience, so late in life, differs from that of the characters in these stories. Fiction repeats the pattern. In Curry: Eating, Reading, and Race, Naben Ruthnum calls the South Asian “I miss the homeland” novels “currybooks.” These narratives, he writes, “typically detail a wrenching sense of being in two worlds at once, torn between the traditions of the East and the liberating, if often unrewarding, freedoms of the West . . . Most often we’re looking at a displaced South Asian character in the U.K., North America, or Western Europe, searching for place, belonging, and an outer and inner shape to her identity.”

  I keep thinking of a scene from the film Bittersweet, a 2010 Egyptian social comedy in which Masry, the lead character, returns to Cairo to reconnect with his past after more than two decades in the United States. Masry tells an old family friend that his father’s last wish was to spend his final days in the city. The friend responds with what I suspect millions of Egyptians think of when they encounter someone like Masry (or me): “These people are strange. They migrate, waste their lives abroad, and at the end of the day, they say, ‘I want to go home and be buried there.’ As if the country is a big cemetery.”

  Have I become the cultural cliché that I so often dismissed, and that Egyptian filmmakers view as “strange”? I don
’t know why it has taken me so long to think of my own return, and I don’t know if these thoughts represent a natural progression, a delusion—or a midlife crisis. All I know is that for the past five years or so, I’ve been thinking of return, my own and other people’s.

  As I write these words in late 2020, there seems to be no end to the fighting and suffering in Yemen. Is my own homeland return just a dream, or worse, an inconvenience, given what the country is going through? Yemen and my family do not need the return of this native—now a Canadian citizen whose adopted country is selling armoured vehicles and other weapons to the Saudis with one face and donating (negligible) aid with the other. And if I do return, how do I make sense of my privileges, from money to the simple fact that I can leave the country whenever I want? I just have to wave my Canadian passport. How will I express what I feel to the people I want to share this homeland with when my Arabic has atrophied over the years? I’ve become so conscious of the effort it takes to sustain any serious conversation in Arabic that I often feel like a stranger—and a tongue-tied one at that—in my own community.

  Arabic was my birthright. How did I squander it?

  This decline had been happening for a number of years, but a short visit to Muscat in 2014 confirmed it, and Ameen, the taxi driver I’d hired, forced me to do something about it.

  * * *

  Ameen’s English was too limited for someone whose job was to ferry tourists and visiting businesspeople to landmarks or government buildings. By then, my Arabic had deteriorated to the point where simple instructions like “Take me to the night market” or “Pick me up in an hour” required feats of word-scouting. I tried to recall moments from childhood when I might have heard my parents say something similar. As my frustration rose, I asked Ameen point-blank, in English, why on earth he’d chosen to work in tourism. He didn’t respond and probably didn’t understand, but my outburst helped me realize that I was trying to blame him for something I had brought on myself.